Framing Composition on Galaxy: Using Frames Within Frames

Arches over streets, church towers glimpsed through tree branches - when you see something like that on your phone's screen, consider using the element nearest the camera to frame the subject. On a phone, exposure can be tricky, since the foreground framing element will often be in shade while the object seen through it will be in full sun.

Nikon’s composition guide mentions using doorways and railings to frame your subject, adding that these elements double as leading lines that help guide the viewer's eye to the subject.

Framing settings by situation

Identify the situation you’re most likely to be shooting in and start there. Each line describes a lens choice as well as a way of dealing with focus and exposure. Also, you’ll get an idea of the problem you’re most likely to run into in each situation.

Spot metering, according to Samsung’s guide for the S26, takes the exposure reading from a small area in the centre of the frame, which is handy for a bright scene seen through a dark window, for example.

The exposure monitor in Pro mode also highlights over- and under-exposed areas on the screen, so you can see where you’re likely to lose detail.

Why a frame helps the photo

Frames are a good way to add depth to your photos because they include something close to the camera. Frames also direct attention to the subject. This clock tower by itself would make a nice enough postcard, but shooting through a dark archway adds depth and gives a sense of where the photographer was standing.

And partial frames work just as well. Even branches that jut into a shot from the top and one side can provide depth and interest. (Perfect frames, like shooting through a circular opening formed by branches, can look contrived.) Our depth guide covers other ways to build layers.

Wide frame or telephoto frame

GSMArena lists a 13mm-equivalent ultrawide on recent S-series phones, with 67mm for the 3x and 111mm for the 5x.

You should avoid placing your subject too close to the edge of your frame when using Samsung’s wide-angle camera, since this can introduce some minor distortion according to the company’s own Galaxy phone user’s guide.

The closer you are to the frame, the more separated the foreground and background will appear, which can be particularly noticeable when using the 0.6x camera in tight spaces like doorways. Standing back and using the 3x or 5x instead compresses the scene a bit more, making it look like your subject and foreground element are on a similar plane (handy for shooting a building across the river with branches in front of it). Just make sure you’re at least 80cm (Galaxy S26 Ultra) or 30cm (Galaxy S25 Ultra) away from the frame with the 5x or it will come out a bit soft, according to Samsung. A-series owners are out of luck here since there is no dedicated telephoto camera, and you are stuck with digital zoom via the main shooter.

Shooting through a frame, step by step

1. 1

   Find the frame first

   Find a natural frame nearby, which could be an archway, or the space between two buildings, and have a look through it.

2. 2

   Move until the subject sits clear of the frame

   Move around until you’re happy with what’s inside your natural frame, making sure that nothing important is bisected by it, as nobody wants to see a pillar run right through the middle of a cathedral, or a tree branch through someone’s face!

3. 3

   Place the subject

   If your natural frame is symmetrical (e.g. an archway), place your subject dead centre. If it’s asymmetrical, place your subject along one of the grid lines in your camera’s Composition guide (enable it via the grid option).

4. 4

   Tap the subject to focus

   Focus on your subject. It’s OK if the frame is slightly out of focus as this will help draw attention to what’s inside it.

5. 5

   Fix the exposure

   Meter for your subject. On current Samsung Galaxy smartphones you can touch and hold an area to bring up AF/AE, which will then split into two boxes. Then drag the exposure (AE) box to re-meter. More info in your Samsung Galaxy user guide.

6. 6

   Shoot both ways

   Try shooting both landscape and portrait, since some frames (think tall doorways!) lend themselves better to one orientation than the other.

When the frame goes too dark

HDR, which our HDR guide breaks down as it pertains to the Galaxy, attempts to deal with this by merging multiple photos of differing exposures, and Photo mode does this automatically. Exposing for the bright background can lead to an underexposed arch, which is fine, as you can always brighten the arch later.

If your photo will have a bright sky and a dark foreground, you’re better off underexposing the foreground than overexposing the sky. Lost detail in white skies can’t be recovered, but dark areas can generally be brightened successfully. The Snapseed app’s Shadows slider (Tune Image) is ideal for a dark frame because it only brightens the shadows. The AE/AF lock guide covers locking exposure when people walk through the scene.

People inside frames

Shooting people in doorways or other openings can make for some nice framing, and you’ll often get some nice light too! Besides Portrait mode’s Blur effect, other effects include two monochrome options and Studio (see Samsung’s support page for the US for more info). On S-series cameras the 3x telephoto is great for keeping a little distance between you and your subject.

Samsung’s user guide warns that background blur can struggle with thin subjects (wrought-iron gate anyone?) or people wearing colours similar to the background, and patchy blurring is a sign Portrait mode’s edge detection isn’t working at its best. Switch to Photo mode instead. The Portrait mode guide has more on the effects.

Editing the frame

Paint the frame darker (but not the subject!) using the Dodge & Burn or Exposure effect in Snapseed’s Brush tool.

If your shot’s lost a bit of colour, try dragging Highlights down in Samsung Gallery before nudging Brightness up a touch. Keep in mind that all of the Gallery editing tools Samsung has documented affect the entire image, so you’ll need Snapseed if you want to make targeted edits.

You can also use Snapseed’s Selective tool to brighten a small area (like a friend’s face in a dark doorway) using just one control point. Or you can apply a subtle vignette effect to darken the edges of your entire image using Snapseed’s Vignette tool.

Framing mistakes to avoid

• Avoid placing people at the sides of an ultrawide frame, or you'll run the risk of distortion.
• Don't expose for the frame, as it can leave the rest of the image blown out.
• Don't use frames that are distracting (too colourful or too bright), as they can draw the eye away from the subject.
• Don't use a frame that intersects with your subject, as this can cause the two to blend together in an unflattering way.
• Don't shoot through dirty windows or glass, as it can haze your shot.

Frames can be very effective on the street too, and our street photography guide includes a brief section on setting up the camera for it. A close frame can also be described as foreground interest, which gives more depth to landscape images.